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The most
difficult task in any car project is in the disassembly,
organization, surface prep, panel replacement, bodywork and
painting. This first phase of any car project is dirty, time consuming and un-gratifying
work. It is hard to keep motivated when you find yourself knee
deep in thousands of parts that all require cleaning and detailing.
And trust me, when restoring or customizing any car, every part
needs to be cleaned, polished, painted or detailed in one way shape
or form. Due to this, it is during this initial phase of a project that most people
become overwhelmed and loose
interest.
On the other
hand, the most enjoyable phase of any car project is the upgrading of
components and re-assembly. These are the tasks most hobbyists
enjoy the most. Every part, system and assembly that gets
bolted in place brings you closer to your goal. It is easy to
stay motivated and complete your project in a timely fashion.
To that end we have developed the Handy man special.
Handy Man Special.
Pricing
starts
at $15,000
Here is a basic
breakdown of what's included....
 | Disassembly / Organization We will completely disassemble, bag and label every last
part. Photos will be take to document the process. |
 | Media blasting All body panels will be media blasted and coated with a self
etching, corrosion resistant primer. |
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panel replacement
Panel replacement, if required, will be provided on a time and material basis.
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The pricing provided below is
for basic panel replacement and does not include any body
work. |
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All panels will be fit &
gapped to meet original factory specifications. |
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All panels will be installed
to give the appearance of the original factory installation.
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Your vehicles repair will be
fully documented with all data being posted to a private web
page for your review. |
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All labor prices apply to vehicles that have not sustained
any major collision damage and have been properly
disassembled (Contact Julian's for details). The prices
listed below are only an estimate and do not include or
cover any labor or parts necessarily needed to properly
repair any hidden damage or rust.
Labor
rates based on typical "muscle car" panel
replacement.
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| Upper / Lower Cowl
Repair |
Call for Quote
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| Half-Length
Floorpan (includes removal of old pan) |
$295.00
per side
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| Full-Length
Floorpan (includes removal of old pan) |
$495.00
per side
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| Full Floorpan
replacement, including trans tunnel
(includes removal of old pan) |
$1,200.00 |
| Full Quarter Panel
replacement (includes removal of old panel) |
$595.00
per side
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| Inner Wheelhouse
(includes removal of old wheelhouse) (with
quarters removed) |
Call for Quote
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| Outer Wheelhouse
(includes removal of old wheelhouse) (with
quarters removed) |
$175.00
per side
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| Door Skin
(includes removal of old skin) |
$165.00
per side
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| Outer Rocker Panel
(includes removal of old panel) |
$245.00
per side
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bodywork
Bodywork means different things to different people. We
typically match the "type" of bodywork required to the "type" of
project you are building. For example, if you are building
a true "concourse" restoration, the bodywork should be performed
in a manner to duplicate factory specifications (fit, finish,
etc...). If, on the other hand, you are building a
modified or custom, the bodywork should be altered to match your
expectations of the finished project. To most that means
fit and finish to match that of current production vehicles. |
 | painting As with bodywork, painting
means different things to different people. That being the
case, as described above, we typically match the "type" of paint
and finish required to the "type" of project you are building.
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We have received
many requests for information on the structural and cosmetic changes
made to the SN65. In fact, we have received so many requests
that we have decided to make the following items available.
So, if you would like to build a SN65 clone without having to graft
an early mustang body onto an 03 Cobra chassis, this is the place to
start. The items listed below are available on a
pre-production basis. Order your parts now and save.
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Door repair
Here is an example of an old rust repair that needs to be
corrected. This was probably state of the art back in the
day, but today, we will not braze in a patch panel, we will weld
in a new piece of sheet metal and grind it smooth. When
done the panel will look brand new, with no sign of repair.
 
Full floor pan replacement
When your floors get to this condition, it is time for
replacement. There is no patching this damage. A
full floor pan is the only way to go

Time to break out the plasma cutter and cut out all the
old metal.

Here we see the inside of the car after we are finished with the
plasma cutter.

The remaining metal is removed and the surfaces ground to remove
40 years of surface rust and debris. All the mating
flanged are hammered and dollied to give us a nice flat surface.

After all the surfaces are prepped, everything is coated with
weld through primer.

Here we see the floor and seat pan ready for installation

All of the panels are trimmed and formed to get us a perfect fit
before anything is welded into position. There is a lot of
hammer and dolly work required to get a factory looking
installation. When complete, the finished product should
be indistinguishable from the original factory pieces

Building the SN65
project taught us a lot about the structure of early mustangs.
If you are familiar with the 65 to 68 chassis, you already
know that they are inherently weak and suffer from a number of
structural deficiencies. While adequate as a basic commuter
car of the 60's, they are not up to par when compared to the cars of
today.
What does this
mean to you?
When a chassis
bends and flexes it effects every aspect of your cars performance.
Deflections in the chassis alter your suspensions geometry making
your car unresponsive at best. Twisting of the
chassis during hard acceleration soaks up precious horse power
reducing acceleration. "Cowl shake" and the flexing of the chassis
(as the car encounters irregularities in the road) when
out for a "joy" ride does not make for a truly enjoyable experience.
Installing our 65
- 68 chassis reinforcing kit will make a world of difference in the
way your early mustang performs. Even with the stock
suspension, the ride quality and handling will be vastly improved.
What's included?
 | Heavy gauge, RH & LH, front torque boxes
The torque boxes eliminate "frame rail flex" at the frame
rail/floor pan mounting area and also tie the reinforced frame rails to the
rocker panels |
 | Structural tube front brace kit The firewall, cowl and shock towers tend to flex and twist under
minimum load. This kit boxes the entire structure and
redistributes the loads from these key points back to the "A"
pillars and the rockers. |
 | Structural, RH & LH, inner rocker
reinforcements
The rocker reinforcements are the main structural members
along the length of the car. Reinforcing these areas
allows us to tie the entire front and rear structures of the car
together with a substantial structural member. This inner
rocker reinforcement not only
stiffens the rockers, floor and seat pans, but also finishes off
the area nicely. |
 | Seat platform, floor, trans tunnel
reinforcing structure
Included in this section is a convertible Seat Platform, convertible Floor reinforcement pans
and a convertible crossover plate.
These items, normally reserved for convertibles, help reinforce
the entire floor pan/trans tunnel area. This is the way all
late model seat
structures are constructed and for good reason. This
modification cross braces the floor and ties the entire
structure to the reinforced rockers. |
 | Heavy gauge structural floor cross brace
This major structural member reinforces the floor pan and ties the rockers, rear
frame rails and "B" pillar reinforcements together.
|
 | Structural tube frame rail cross brace
This major structural member replaces the weak single tube
front suspension cross support and reinforces front
frame rails. Not only does this brace tie the frame rails
together, but it also increases torsional stability. |
All that is
required, for the installation of this package, are basic
welding skills and equipment on your part.
When complete,
you will have basically "caged" the entire car. Not only will
you have greatly improved the uni-bodies overall structure, but you
will have done it in a way that looks factory correct or "stock".
If you are going
to race the car, your only other consideration would be to add a roll bar for
rollover and impact protection (consult your sanctioning
body for the proper configuration).
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Give your car the aggressive look of the SN65. These flares
will give your Rest-O-Mod a look that will make your project car
stand out from the pack. These flares are based on the
popular, late model factory Mustang flares. One of our
favorite aspects is that, when installed, they become "seamless" and
merge with the original design.

These flares are 100% steel. That's right, 100% steel.
As we were developing these flares we came to an interesting
realization. No two quarter panels and no two fenders "fit up"
in exactly the same way. Even on two factory original cars,
the tolerances, from one to the other, can add up to as much as plus
or minus 1/2". Then add the form and fit of aftermarket
fenders and partial quarter replacements, etc... to the equation.
This is problematic when designing a flare that is supposed to fit
all cars the same. To resolve this issue, we decided to offer
the flare in "kit" form. This allows you to custom fit each
flare to your car and get a perfect fit each and every time. The
flare kits are designed in AutoCAD and then precision cut
on a plasma table. The completed flares can be panel bonded or
welded to your existing fenders and quarter panels.
Below you can see a flare being assembled and fit up. The
flare is built while still attached to the carrier to eliminate
deformation and warping during assembly. It takes about one
hour of labor to assemble the flare and get it "rough" fit to the
body. The final contours (at the bottom of the flares) are fit
and finished during assembly to assure a perfect fit.

These flares are designed to allow for a 2" drop of the front
suspension and a 1" drop on the rear (more with proper suspension
modifications). Allows for the installation of wider wheels
without chassis modifications.
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1965 to 1970 Hood Hinges
Stainless Steel construction
Designed to fit all 65-70
Mustangs
$525
Custom engraving available
for clubs and organizations who order 10 or more



We have been
building mustangs for a while now. And while bolting the
hood up on our latest project car, we decided enough was enough.
The original hinges (and repops as well) are always a pain in
the butt. They are impossible to paint. The 7 pivots
are always loose and the 40 year old design just looks clunky.
There are other aftermarket hinges available, but they are all
based on the old design and we wanted something cleaner.
Something simple. Something different. We researched
the design, the pivots, the struts, etc... and this hinge
is the result of all our efforts.
Watch the
following video (viewable on Microsoft Media Player) to see the
hinge in action. To save the video to your computer (this
is faster than just clicking and buffering in WMP) just right
click and pick "save target as".
Low res video download
High
res video download
We believe
that our hood hinges are an improvement over those currently on
the market in the following ways:
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All
stainless steel construction.
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Others
use billet aluminum because of its relatively
low
cost and also, the soft aluminum is easy to machine.
Stainless steel is much harder than aluminum. It will
maintain it’s finish longer and is much less prone to
scratches and dents.
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Our
hinges will not corrode, pit or oxidize like billet
aluminum does.
- Permanently lubricated bearings
- We use self-lubricating SAE 841 bearing material.
Also called Oilite, this porous material, impregnated with
roughly 18% SAE 30 oil, makes a virtually maintenance-free
bearing. Oil cushions the bearing, adding resistance to
shock load and wear.
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Greater
range of motion.
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Our
hinges allow the hood to be opened more than the
original stock hinges. This gives greater access to the
engine bay for maintenance and detailing. Also, it
allows you to fully expose your engine bay at a car
show. This stops people from bending over and sticking
their head under your hood to see all the fine detail
work.
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Unique
hinge geometry.
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Unlike
the factory hinge and other aftermarket products, our
strut is not loaded when the hood is closed. This means
that FRP or composite hoods will not “bow” from built up
spring pressure.
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4
pivot point’s instead of 7 means less “slop” and a
smoother operation.
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Different
surface finishes are available
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Brushed (standard)
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Satin
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Polished to a
Show
quality “mirror” finish
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Simple
“bolt in” installation
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No
special tools required
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Bolts
up just like the original OEM hinge
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No
special adjustments or synchronization between hinges.
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Unique
styling will set your car apart from the crowd
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Different
struts available for all applications
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