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Quote of the Day

Your manuscript is both good and original, but the part that is good is not original and the part that is original is not good.
- Samuel Johnson

The most difficult task in any car project is in the disassembly, organization, surface prep, panel replacement, bodywork and painting.  This first phase of any car project is dirty, time consuming and un-gratifying work.  It is hard to keep motivated when you find yourself knee deep in thousands of parts that all require cleaning and detailing.  And trust me, when restoring or customizing any car, every part needs to be cleaned, polished, painted or detailed in one way shape or form.  Due to this, it is during this initial phase of a project that most people become overwhelmed and loose interest. 

On the other hand, the most enjoyable phase of any car project is the upgrading of components and re-assembly.  These are the tasks most hobbyists enjoy the most.  Every part, system and assembly that gets bolted in place brings you closer to your goal.  It is easy to stay motivated and complete your project in a timely fashion.  To that end we have developed the Handy man special.

Handy Man Special.  Pricing starts at $15,000

Here is a basic breakdown of what's included....

bulletDisassembly / Organization
We will completely disassemble, bag and label every last part.  Photos will be take to document the process.
bulletMedia blasting
All body panels will be media blasted and coated with a self etching, corrosion resistant primer.
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panel replacement
Panel replacement, if required, will be provided on a time and material basis. 
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The pricing provided below is for basic panel replacement and does not include any body work.

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All panels will be fit & gapped to meet original factory specifications.

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All panels will be installed to give the appearance of the original factory installation.

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Your vehicles repair will be fully documented with all data being posted to a private web page for your review.

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All labor prices apply to vehicles that have not sustained any major collision damage and have been properly disassembled (Contact Julian's for details). The prices listed below are only an estimate and do not include or cover any labor or parts necessarily needed to properly repair any hidden damage or  rust.

Labor rates based on typical "muscle car" panel replacement. 

Upper / Lower Cowl Repair
Call for Quote
 
Half-Length Floorpan  (includes removal of old pan)
$295.00
 per side
Full-Length Floorpan  (includes removal of old pan)
$495.00
 per side
Full Floorpan replacement, including trans tunnel  (includes removal of old pan)

$1,200.00

Full Quarter Panel replacement (includes removal of old panel)
$595.00
 per side
Inner Wheelhouse (includes removal of old wheelhouse) (with quarters removed)
Call for Quote
 
Outer Wheelhouse (includes removal of old wheelhouse) (with quarters removed)
$175.00
 per side
Door Skin  (includes removal of old skin)
$165.00
 per side
Outer Rocker Panel  (includes removal of old panel)
$245.00
 per side

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bodywork
Bodywork means different things to different people.  We typically match the "type" of bodywork required to the "type" of project you are building.  For example, if you are building a true "concourse" restoration, the bodywork should be performed in a manner to duplicate factory specifications (fit, finish, etc...).  If, on the other hand, you are building a modified or custom, the bodywork should be altered to match your expectations of the finished project.  To most that means fit and finish to match that of current production vehicles.

bulletpainting
As with bodywork, painting means different things to different people.  That being the case, as described above, we typically match the "type" of paint and finish required to the "type" of project you are building.

We have received many requests for information on the structural and cosmetic changes made to the SN65.  In fact, we have received so many requests that we have decided to make the following items available.  So, if you would like to build a SN65 clone without having to graft an early mustang body onto an 03 Cobra chassis, this is the place to start.  The items listed below are available on a pre-production basis.  Order your parts now and save.

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Panel Replacement
&
Rust Repair Examples

See above for pricing

Door repair

Here is an example of an old rust repair that needs to be corrected.  This was probably state of the art back in the day, but today, we will not braze in a patch panel, we will weld in a new piece of sheet metal and grind it smooth.  When done the panel will look brand new, with no sign of repair.

Full floor pan replacement

When your floors get to this condition, it is time for replacement.  There is no patching this damage.  A full floor pan is the only way to go

Time to  break out the plasma cutter and cut out all the old metal.

Here we see the inside of the car after we are finished with the plasma cutter.

The remaining metal is removed and the surfaces ground to remove 40 years of surface rust and debris.  All the mating flanged are hammered and dollied to give us a nice flat surface.

After all the surfaces are prepped, everything is coated with weld through primer.

Here we see the floor and seat pan ready for installation

All of the panels are trimmed and formed to get us a perfect fit before anything is welded into position.  There is a lot of hammer and dolly work required to get a factory looking installation.  When complete, the finished product should be indistinguishable from the original factory pieces

 

Building the SN65 project taught us a lot about the structure of early mustangs.  If you are familiar with the 65 to 68 chassis, you already know that they are inherently weak and suffer from a number of structural deficiencies.  While adequate as a basic commuter car of the 60's, they are not up to par when compared to the cars of today.

What does this mean to you?

When a chassis bends and flexes it effects every aspect of your cars performance.  Deflections in the chassis alter your suspensions geometry making your car unresponsive at best.  Twisting of the chassis during hard acceleration soaks up precious horse power reducing acceleration.  "Cowl shake" and the flexing of the chassis (as the car encounters irregularities in the road) when out for a "joy" ride does not make for a truly enjoyable experience.

Installing our 65 - 68 chassis reinforcing kit will make a world of difference in the way your early mustang performs.  Even with the stock suspension, the ride quality and handling will be vastly improved.

What's included?

bulletHeavy gauge, RH & LH, front torque boxes
The torque boxes eliminate "frame rail flex" at the frame rail/floor pan mounting area and also tie the reinforced frame rails to the rocker panels
 
bulletStructural tube front brace kit
The firewall, cowl and shock towers tend to flex and twist under minimum load.  This kit boxes the entire structure and redistributes the loads from these key points back to the "A" pillars and the rockers.
 
bulletStructural, RH & LH, inner rocker reinforcements
The rocker reinforcements are the main structural members along the length of the car.  Reinforcing these areas allows us to tie the entire front and rear structures of the car together with a substantial structural member.  This inner rocker reinforcement not only stiffens the rockers, floor and seat pans, but also finishes off the area nicely.
 
bulletSeat platform, floor, trans tunnel reinforcing structure
Included in this section is a convertible Seat Platform, convertible Floor reinforcement pans and a convertible crossover plate.  These items, normally reserved for convertibles, help reinforce the entire floor pan/trans tunnel area.  This is the way all late model seat structures are constructed and for good reason.  This modification cross braces the floor and ties the entire structure to the reinforced rockers.
 
bulletHeavy gauge structural floor cross brace
This major structural member reinforces the floor pan and ties the rockers, rear frame rails and "B" pillar reinforcements together.
 
bulletStructural tube frame rail cross brace
This major structural member replaces the weak single tube front suspension cross support and reinforces front frame rails.  Not only does this brace tie the frame rails together, but it also increases torsional stability.

All that is required, for the installation of this package,  are basic welding skills and equipment on your part.

When complete, you will have basically "caged" the entire car.  Not only will you have greatly improved the uni-bodies overall structure, but you will have done it in a way that looks factory correct or "stock". 

If you are going to race the car, your only other consideration would be to add a roll bar for rollover and impact protection (consult your sanctioning body for the proper configuration).

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SN65 Fender flares

All Steel construction
Designed to fit all 65-66 Mustangs

$230 each

Give your car the aggressive look of the SN65.  These flares will give your Rest-O-Mod a look that will make your project car stand out from the pack.  These flares are based on the popular, late model factory Mustang flares.  One of our favorite aspects is that, when installed, they become "seamless" and merge with the original design.

These flares are 100% steel.  That's right, 100% steel.  As we were developing these flares we came to an interesting realization.  No two quarter panels and no two fenders "fit up" in exactly the same way.  Even on two factory original cars, the tolerances, from one to the other, can add up to as much as plus or minus 1/2".  Then add the form and fit of aftermarket fenders and partial quarter replacements, etc... to the equation.  This is problematic when designing a flare that is supposed to fit all cars the same.  To resolve this issue, we decided to offer the flare in "kit" form.  This allows you to custom fit each flare to your car and get a perfect fit each and every time.  The flare kits are designed in AutoCAD and then precision cut on a plasma table.  The completed flares can be panel bonded or welded to your existing fenders and quarter panels.

Below you can see a flare being assembled and fit up.  The flare is built while still attached to the carrier to eliminate deformation and warping during assembly.  It takes about one hour of labor to assemble the flare and get it "rough" fit to the body.  The final contours (at the bottom of the flares) are fit and finished during assembly to assure a perfect fit.

These flares are designed to allow for a 2" drop of the front suspension and a 1" drop on the rear (more with proper suspension modifications).  Allows for the installation of wider wheels without chassis modifications.

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1965 to 1970 Hood Hinges 

Stainless Steel construction
Designed to fit all 65-70 Mustangs

$525

Custom engraving available for clubs and organizations who order 10 or more

We have been building mustangs for a while now.  And while bolting the hood up on our latest project car, we decided enough was enough.  The original hinges (and repops as well) are always a pain in the butt.  They are impossible to paint.  The 7 pivots are always loose and the 40 year old design just looks clunky.  There are other aftermarket hinges available, but they are all based on the old design and we wanted something cleaner.  Something simple.  Something different.  We researched the design, the pivots, the struts, etc...  and this hinge is the result of all our efforts.

Watch the following video (viewable on Microsoft Media Player) to see the hinge in action.  To save the video to your computer (this is faster than just clicking and buffering in WMP) just right click and pick "save target as".

Low res video download

High res video download

We believe that our hood hinges are an improvement over those currently on the market in the following ways:

  1. All stainless steel construction. 
    1. Others use billet aluminum because of its relatively low cost and also, the soft aluminum is easy to machine.  Stainless steel is much harder than aluminum.  It will maintain it’s finish longer and is much less prone to scratches and dents.
    2. Our hinges will not corrode, pit or oxidize like billet aluminum does.
  2. Permanently lubricated bearings
    1. We use self-lubricating SAE 841 bearing material.  Also called Oilite, this porous material, impregnated with roughly 18% SAE 30 oil, makes a virtually maintenance-free bearing. Oil cushions the bearing, adding resistance to shock load and wear.
  3. Greater range of motion.
    1. Our hinges allow the hood to be opened more than the original stock hinges.  This gives greater access to the engine bay for maintenance and detailing.  Also, it allows you to fully expose your engine bay at a car show.  This stops people from bending over and sticking their head under your hood to see all the fine detail work.
  4. Unique hinge geometry.
    1. Unlike the factory hinge and other aftermarket products, our strut is not loaded when the hood is closed.  This means that FRP or composite hoods will not “bow” from built up spring pressure.
    2. 4 pivot point’s instead of 7 means less “slop” and a smoother operation.
  5. Different surface finishes are available
    1. Brushed (standard)
    2. Satin
    3. Polished to a Show quality “mirror” finish
  6. Simple “bolt in” installation
    1. No special tools required
    2. Bolts up just like the original OEM hinge
    3. No special adjustments or synchronization between hinges.
  7. Unique styling will set your car apart from the crowd
  8. Different struts available for all applications

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Custom bodywork, Paint & Restoration Services

Chassis Reinforcing Package
   65 - 68 Mustang, Coupe & Fastback

SN65 fender flares
   65 - 66 Mustang, Coupe, Fastback & Convertible

1965 to 1970
   Show Quality Hood Hinges

   65 - 70 Mustang, Coupe, Fastback & Convertible

We accept Visa and MasterCard